INTRODUCTION TO RVing GUATEMALA
“Central America!” For most folks the name conjures up visions of steaming banana plantations and tin-horn dictators frocked in gilded uniforms and reflective sunglasses. Thankfully for the citizens of Central America, when the cold war ended, so did support for superpower proxy politics. The days of organized guerrilla rebellion and brutal government repression in Guatemala are now part of a bygone era.
Guatemala is most certainly not a pint-size version of Mexico---as an example comparing Thailand to India would be a similar mistake. Guatemala hosts two radically different cultures; a minority of European descent and the majority comprised of several indigenous tribes including the Maya -- direct descendants of the great societies that built the pyramids and temples in the rain forests. Mexico style blending of Indian and ladino bloodlines (resulting in the classic mestizo) is not common in Guatemala. The indigena or Indians desire autonomy and adherence to their own customs, while the whites tend to disparage Indians, while coveting their artifacts and handicrafts. The truth is, without the draw of the pyramids of Tikal, the pageantry of Easter Indian celebrations in Antigua, and numerous fascinating Indian communities and markets, the country would enjoy but a tiny fraction of the present number of international tourists
As far as travel distance is concerned, Guatemala is approximately as far from the US border as Chicago is from San Francisco. My first trip to Guatemala in the early seventies took thirteen long days (with no sightseeing along the way). I remember arriving at a high mountain lake and then collapsing with exhaustion for several days. Unlike today's modern expressways, Mexico's main arterial highways were narrow two-lane ribbons of potholed macadam and they were clogged with belching trucks and buses. There were few road signs and I dreaded passage through urban areas larger than a small town. Today eight days of dedicated daylight driving on mostly expressways will span Mexico from north to south.
I have prepared a thumbnail description of Guatemala's five most popular attractions, They are not in any particular order because in my opinion any one of them would be enticing enough to warrant a visit:
• TIKAL Huge Mayan ruins area set in the midst of awesome three-canopy rain forest. One of the top pre-Columbian sites, but its relative remoteness, off the beaten track (charter bus circuit), allows a visitor unexpected elbow room, compared to the crowds at Mexico's Chichen Itza, and Palenque. If you are looking for a pith helmet and machete style adventure I can think of no better place to live out your dream.
• ANTIGUA A world heritage site colonial city, so designated because of the phenomenal beauty of its colonial architecture and setting. Easter pageantry brings intense indigenous celebrations with flower pedal carpeting of streets, costumes, floats and parades. The celebration has been worthy of centerfold spreads in The National Geographic, and attracts tourists from all over the world. In fact Easter is so popular in Antigua, that hotel reservations have to be made at least a year in advance.
• LAKE ATITLAN A Lake-Tahoe-size alpine (5,300 ft altitude) body of water surrounded by Indian towns and ringed by (dormant) volcanoes. Author Aldous Huxley famously described Lake Atitlan's beauty as Too much of a good thing”. The setting is mesmerizing, almost hypnotically beautiful. Atitlan is an ancient volcanic caldera. The traditional Indian towns offer the traveler an excellent chance to shop Guatemala's incredibly low priced Indian crafts. Small passenger ferries ply the lake making transportation cheap, easy and an adventure in itself. There is the international travelers scene of Panajachel, a lakeside town that offers a plentiful assortment of budget hotels, an international food circus in its restaurants, RV parking plus scads of bars, coffee shops, internet cafes, miles of shopping stalls, and everything else needed to break your heart when it comes time to leave. The climate is springlike year round.
• Outdoor Indian markets, all over the country, are extremely popular with world travelers. To attend market day anywhere from the tiniest of settlements to the largest of cities is worthy of scores of digital images and sighs of satisfaction. The markets have been ongoing for thousands of years. Shoppers can find everything from fruits and vegetables to livestock! Indian crafts (called tipica), such as pottery and weaving’s are irresistible. To top it off, prices (established by bartering) are so low an RV'er stands the very possibility of overloading their rig!
• IXIL (eesh-SHEEL') TRIANGLE An extremely popular area set high in the beautiful Cuchumatanes mountains. The “triangle” shaped area is demarcated by three picturesque Indian villages (Nebaj, Cotzal, and Chajul).
Although I have seen large motorhomes and 5th wheel trailers in Guatemala, and have traveled there extensively in a converted bus flat towing a one-ton pickup truck, I strongly recommend adopting a conservative approach when considering what size rig may be best. The country is tiny and you will find roads and parking spaces of similar diminutive proportions. Traditional recreational vehicle parks are few and far in-between. It is common to solicit parking next to a hotel. Pickup campers and short 5th wheel trailers, and motorhomes to 24' would be ideal. However if you are a good driver and patient you can nurse a larger rig from the border directly to a destination then use a towed vehicle or public transportation and stay in reasonably priced hotels for satellite forays to adventure.
There has been a lot of publicity over the years about the level of safety in Guatemala. But the trouble spots can be easily avoided once you know about them and like you'll find anywhere else, common sense and prudence reduce the chances of being victimized to a miniscule level. The point to remember is, all main travel routes are safe for daylight travel. Check with fellow travelers for updates about regional security. You'll find the general level of camaraderie to be pleasingly high with travelers and simply astonishing when you're with fellow RV'ers.
The capitol, Guatemala City is a teeming metropolis of several millions. It isn't particularly attractive, but as far as logistical value is concerned the city hosts top-notch hospitals, and a full spectrum of shopping, American-style. Flights out of Aurora International Airport serve much of the continental U.S.
A NOTE FROM THE AUTHOR
It is hoped as you follow this series of articles the country will become less alien and indeed become a siren call difficult to resist. Writing travel articles about south-of-the-border adventure permits me two satisfying rewards: The first reward is when folks email and tell me the stories carry them far away from day in and day out tedium, but frankly those letters that say “We did it! The information helped us to concentrate on having fun and not waste time trying to reinvent the wheel dealing with day to day mysteries” are as sweet as a slice of mango pie and steaming cup of Atitlan shade grown coffee!