by David Eidell (03/04)
The very instant that I read the name on a map I knew that I was in for another adventure. "Escudo Jaguar" means "I heard a jaguar". But in order to get there I am going to have to enter a sensitive area -- "La Frontera" between Guatemala and Mexico. The government recently paved the track into the Lancandon Rain Forest, and indeed it is there, within the Monte Azul biosphere preserve that it is rumored that Sub Commandante Marcos, recently of the EZLN or Zapatistas is headquartered. Trackless rain forest, with giant water falls, giant centipedes, and mist covered Mayan Temples. "I say Nigel old man, you'd best bring a pith helmet and a suitable quantity of Gin & Tonic for this one".
The safety issue within the confines of this area are not without doubt. It is rumored that the Mexican Army will let the occasional motorist continue their journey there only within the protection of an armed convoy. But it is my wish to do more than simply journey the two hundred mile length of this track but to break away from any convoy and remain within the rain forest for a length that is satisfactory to suit my purpose. Into the very sanctity of Monte Azul I wish to enter and explore. I certainly do not expect to encounter a masked band apparition of red and green clad rebels but to perhaps glimpse a rare Quetzal bird, the very feathers of which had adorned the traje (costume) of verily every Aztec and Mayan emporer to ascend the throne. There are the ruins of Yaxchilan and Bonampak, and yes, the very occasional roar of a jaguar (four-wheel drive with spots).
The mighty Usumacinta River, the largest in Mexico forms the boundry here with Guatemala. Forty foot launches with bimini shade roofs ply the waters, expanding trade with rural outposts worthy of full spread photography in National Geographic. Monkeys, macaws, toucans and parrots frolic in the trees, while giant coral, fer-de-lance, and bushmaster snakes hunt in the verdant foliage.
If I can only forestall nagging problems with a herniated disc in my spine I shall discover and photograph the Quetzal and many other exotic and wild things here. I shall fill the ice chests with ice and food plus beverages, the tanks with diesel, and optimism to the brim. With compass in hand, and a smile, I bid goodbye for now.
And certainly upon my return if I should ever hear "Is it safe to visit Chiapas?" I shall scream "YES! AND THEN SOME!"
Saludos de San Cristóbal de Las Casas (Safer than say, Mendocino California),
David